Posts Tagged With: coast

Exploring Cantabria; Puente Viesgo, Ontaneda and Santander in the rain.

Thursday morning was spent sleeping and resting from my sprained ankle from the day before. I was feeling better and was itching to get out by Thursday evening so after lunch at around 4pm we headed to Puente Viesgo, that won Cantabrias’ Best Town award in 2007. It’s very small and pretty and set within a backdrop of hills.

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A bridge goes over a fast flowing river and there is a path that goes along the river heading into the village. The town itself has a town hall, church, a few bars and one shop, a posh hotel and an old peoples home and Spanish homes, that is pretty much it. It was nice to wander around for an hour or so.

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Nearby is a village called Ontaneda. If you were going by car along the main road you could blink and miss it. However it is famous for its Helado (ice cream.) Helados Lopez and family have been selling icecreams in a tienduca since 1895 and there was a queue to get inside. I chose a scoop of toffee and a scoop of chocolate and it was yummy!

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Today we had plans to get up early and explore the coastal path in Santander however the weather had other ideas. I was told not to have breakfast as we were going out for it! We went to Santander by train (40 mins) and had breakfast in Valor, a chocolateria specialising in Churros con chocolate. I had tried these before when I lived in Madrid (at Chocolate San Gines, Sol) but these ones were with a thicker chocolate sauce that was more on the dark side than milky. It was a great breakfast and prepared us for all the walking we were meant to do.

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It started to drizzle as we walked around town, seeing the townhall, library and cathedral. We also visited Mercado Esperanza, the local market where fresh fish, meat and fruit and veg are sold.

IMG_20150807_111756_BURST001_COVERIMG_20150807_112626 IMG_20150807_112632 IMG_20150807_112506 IMG_20150807_113043(Yes, that is raw rabbit!)

As we started to walk around to the coast the rain got fiercer so we saw the first beach and the Raqueros monuments.

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We eventually hid in a Chiringita and had a clara and tortilla. The rain began to pour so we gave up on walking the coast and got a bus back to the train station and the train back to Torrelavega. After a bit of shopping we returned home. I am now getting ready for the weekend ahead, a festival of wine tasting in La Rioja region! More food, more wine and more exploring to do! (Photo below of sunset, view from my window last night!) It’s still raining this evening….

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Exploring Cantabria; San Vicente de la Barquera, Trasvía and Comillas.

On Wednesday I went for a run around Puente San Miguel in the morning then after breakfast wrote my blog until Francisco finished work. Then all 3 of us went out exploring again. First stop was San Vicente de la Barquera, a coastal town close to Asturias. We stopped for Tapas in a renovated old fishing bar called La Pescador. We ended up with raciones (larger portions of tapas) of Sarten de Carne, huevos rotos y patatas. It arrived at the table as a pan filled with fried potatoes, mincemeat that had chorizo in too and then 2 fried eggs on top. It was delicious. Francisco had Sardines and Jane had strips of pork in garlic with potatoes. After food we walked along the coast, admiring how dry the place looked with the tide out and seeing all the stranded little fishing boats.

IMG_20150805_154133 IMG_20150805_172052 We then walked up hills of cobbled streets to the old town, following the signs of the Camino de Santiago, as this town (as well as the towns explored yesterday) are part of the 760km pilgrimage. We saw a few pilgrims completing that part of the walk later in the evening looking very tired in the heat!

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In the old town there is a castle called Castillo del Rey but the biggest monument is a huge gothic church, Iglesia de Nuesta Señora de los Angeles. As both are built high up there are incredible views of the surrounding sea and countryside as well as typically Spanish houses with orange tiled roofs.

IMG_20150805_165828 IMG_20150805_165324 IMG_20150805_165935 IMG_20150805_165708 IMG_20150805_172015_BURST002IMG_20150805_165225IMG_20150805_165601 On the way to our next destination we stopped at Trasvias, a piece of green land by the coast where every direction you look down and can see beautiful beaches and bays. I liked  Trasvias because it hadn’t been built on and was empty of houses so the view was easy to appreciate! IMG_20150805_175035

Comillas is another seaside town, though this is meant to be where the rich people buy their second houses, and each try to outdo each other with giant, over the top, homes. One of these is El Capricho de Gaudi. A home designed completely over the top by Gaudi that resembles Parc Guell in Barcelona. Its very colourful and has tiny tiles on the outside of the house decorated with sunflowers. The owner of the house was a musician so the balcony is made from metal musical notes. It looks like something out of a fairy tale! IMG_20150805_185500 IMG_20150805_185503 Next door to this house, is one completely the opposite, the Gothic Palacio and Capilla Panteόn de Sobrellano. If Gaudis is from a fairy tale then this one is from a nightmare. The palace is dark and looms over a hill facing the town of Comillas. Next to the palace, the owners only Son died and so they built a gothic church where he is buried. IMG_20150805_190911 IMG_20150805_190818_BURST002 IMG_20150805_190154

Other sights in Comillas were the Monumento al Marques de Comillas, comemorating the marqui of Comillas, which sits on another hill overlooking the surf. Also the Lluis Doménech i Montaner and Josep Llimona Cemetry which looks out to sea too.

IMG_20150805_180634 IMG_20150805_180755IMG_20150805_180809 After we returned to the house I tried a Sobao, a sponge cake specific to Cantabria with a glass of fresh milk from the cows outside the house.

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