Posts Tagged With: Cantabria

Exploring Cantabria; Puente Viesgo, Ontaneda and Santander in the rain.

Thursday morning was spent sleeping and resting from my sprained ankle from the day before. I was feeling better and was itching to get out by Thursday evening so after lunch at around 4pm we headed to Puente Viesgo, that won Cantabrias’ Best Town award in 2007. It’s very small and pretty and set within a backdrop of hills.


A bridge goes over a fast flowing river and there is a path that goes along the river heading into the village. The town itself has a town hall, church, a few bars and one shop, a posh hotel and an old peoples home and Spanish homes, that is pretty much it. It was nice to wander around for an hour or so.

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Nearby is a village called Ontaneda. If you were going by car along the main road you could blink and miss it. However it is famous for its Helado (ice cream.) Helados Lopez and family have been selling icecreams in a tienduca since 1895 and there was a queue to get inside. I chose a scoop of toffee and a scoop of chocolate and it was yummy!

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Today we had plans to get up early and explore the coastal path in Santander however the weather had other ideas. I was told not to have breakfast as we were going out for it! We went to Santander by train (40 mins) and had breakfast in Valor, a chocolateria specialising in Churros con chocolate. I had tried these before when I lived in Madrid (at Chocolate San Gines, Sol) but these ones were with a thicker chocolate sauce that was more on the dark side than milky. It was a great breakfast and prepared us for all the walking we were meant to do.


It started to drizzle as we walked around town, seeing the townhall, library and cathedral. We also visited Mercado Esperanza, the local market where fresh fish, meat and fruit and veg are sold.

IMG_20150807_111756_BURST001_COVERIMG_20150807_112626 IMG_20150807_112632 IMG_20150807_112506 IMG_20150807_113043(Yes, that is raw rabbit!)

As we started to walk around to the coast the rain got fiercer so we saw the first beach and the Raqueros monuments.

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We eventually hid in a Chiringita and had a clara and tortilla. The rain began to pour so we gave up on walking the coast and got a bus back to the train station and the train back to Torrelavega. After a bit of shopping we returned home. I am now getting ready for the weekend ahead, a festival of wine tasting in La Rioja region! More food, more wine and more exploring to do! (Photo below of sunset, view from my window last night!) It’s still raining this evening….


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Exploring Cantabria; San Vicente de la Barquera, Trasvía and Comillas.

On Wednesday I went for a run around Puente San Miguel in the morning then after breakfast wrote my blog until Francisco finished work. Then all 3 of us went out exploring again. First stop was San Vicente de la Barquera, a coastal town close to Asturias. We stopped for Tapas in a renovated old fishing bar called La Pescador. We ended up with raciones (larger portions of tapas) of Sarten de Carne, huevos rotos y patatas. It arrived at the table as a pan filled with fried potatoes, mincemeat that had chorizo in too and then 2 fried eggs on top. It was delicious. Francisco had Sardines and Jane had strips of pork in garlic with potatoes. After food we walked along the coast, admiring how dry the place looked with the tide out and seeing all the stranded little fishing boats.

IMG_20150805_154133 IMG_20150805_172052 We then walked up hills of cobbled streets to the old town, following the signs of the Camino de Santiago, as this town (as well as the towns explored yesterday) are part of the 760km pilgrimage. We saw a few pilgrims completing that part of the walk later in the evening looking very tired in the heat!


In the old town there is a castle called Castillo del Rey but the biggest monument is a huge gothic church, Iglesia de Nuesta Señora de los Angeles. As both are built high up there are incredible views of the surrounding sea and countryside as well as typically Spanish houses with orange tiled roofs.

IMG_20150805_165828 IMG_20150805_165324 IMG_20150805_165935 IMG_20150805_165708 IMG_20150805_172015_BURST002IMG_20150805_165225IMG_20150805_165601 On the way to our next destination we stopped at Trasvias, a piece of green land by the coast where every direction you look down and can see beautiful beaches and bays. I liked  Trasvias because it hadn’t been built on and was empty of houses so the view was easy to appreciate! IMG_20150805_175035

Comillas is another seaside town, though this is meant to be where the rich people buy their second houses, and each try to outdo each other with giant, over the top, homes. One of these is El Capricho de Gaudi. A home designed completely over the top by Gaudi that resembles Parc Guell in Barcelona. Its very colourful and has tiny tiles on the outside of the house decorated with sunflowers. The owner of the house was a musician so the balcony is made from metal musical notes. It looks like something out of a fairy tale! IMG_20150805_185500 IMG_20150805_185503 Next door to this house, is one completely the opposite, the Gothic Palacio and Capilla Panteόn de Sobrellano. If Gaudis is from a fairy tale then this one is from a nightmare. The palace is dark and looms over a hill facing the town of Comillas. Next to the palace, the owners only Son died and so they built a gothic church where he is buried. IMG_20150805_190911 IMG_20150805_190818_BURST002 IMG_20150805_190154

Other sights in Comillas were the Monumento al Marques de Comillas, comemorating the marqui of Comillas, which sits on another hill overlooking the surf. Also the Lluis Doménech i Montaner and Josep Llimona Cemetry which looks out to sea too.

IMG_20150805_180634 IMG_20150805_180755IMG_20150805_180809 After we returned to the house I tried a Sobao, a sponge cake specific to Cantabria with a glass of fresh milk from the cows outside the house.

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Exploring Cantabria; Suances, Playa de los Locos and Santillana del Mar

I woke up on Tuesday very well rested after a long sleep. It was about 1130am so I came downstairs to find a feast of fresh fruit, cereal, homemade bread, honey, jam, local milk from the cows nearby etc laid out on the table and a written note from Jane explaining she had gone out and will come back ready for 3pm when Francisco finished work, so to eat lots and then we would go out exploring.

I couldn’t believe how many nice beaches and bars are located nearby. The first place we went to was called Suances.


Jane and Francisco took me to a bar for Tapas. We had tortilla again and this time something marvelous. I had never heard of it before, despite living in a Madrid, and am so thankful I have tried such yummy new food, called Tigres (literally tigers in English, with even spanish people not knowing why they are called that.) They are mussels with half their shell on in a green thick sauce then coated in bechamel sauce and breadcrumbs and deep fried. I took a picture because I knew my description wouldn’t do it justice.


Unfortunately my picture doesn’t such just how tasty they are, like a fishy croqueta!

We went for a walk after the tapas and clara along the seafront, enjoying the views. We then went for a 5 minute drive away to see Playa de los Locos (beach of the crazies!) called this for the big waves and many surfers. The bay is cut with white rocks and you walk down many stairs to a grassy area then a sandy beach and, on that day, huge waves! The surfers looked like they were having so much fun! We walked around watching them and learning lots about the area from Jane and Francisco. It seems my job here is to enjoy exploring, spending time with them and having conversations in English and Spanish. I love to talk and Jane is so interesting that this is probably the perfect role for me, I feel like I am on holiday!

Next stop was Santillana del Mar, known as the place of the 3 lies; it is not related to any saints (Santi) neither is it flat (llana) nor by the sea (del Mar.) However it is an old small town thats very pituresque and typically Spanish with cobbled streets and stunning architecture. We wondered about the old town, enjoying the scenery and trying some more tapas, this time ensalada russa, russian salad that was mainly potato, tuna and vegetable in mayonaise, with bread. The best part was that most of the cobbled streets lead to a huge (un cacho de) Colegiata (Something like a church or cathedral with columns surrounding it.) There were many quirky shops where I bought some gifts for home and a really nice pottery place too.


In the evening we returned to the house and Jane made a salad with chorizo y picos and other tapas style dishes. For dessert I tried something traditional to Cantabria, called a Quesada Paisega. This one was from the local shop that only sells quesada and had been making them there since 1891. A quesada is the consistency of cheesecake but it doesn’t have cheese or gelatin inside. It tastes like a sweet, slightly lemony, thick pancake and was so delicious! Its typical to have it with a glass of milk and many tourists in Santillana del Mar were trying it this way!

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What is HelpX? Help exchange explained and arrival in the North of Spain

I haven’t written a blog post in over a year (stopped in Australia as decent internet connection on the road became a big issue!) but since I am now traveling alone again I thought I would keep people updated. I left England 3 days ago for sunny Spain, to join a HelpX in Cantabria, in the north of Spain. Before I left many friends and family were asking  what is helpx and is it safe etc so I will give a brief overview of the site and what I am doing here!

This is the actual website for help exchange;

Its a very simple idea in that people who want to volunteer (helpxers) create a profile similar to facebook, describing themselves, what jobs they are good at and what they like to do in their spare time, where they want to travel and for how long. Similarly, people who want to have helpers come into their home/business create a host profile with what help they need, what the accommodation is like and how much work per day.

It’s an exchange because volunteers usually work for 4 hours a day in return for free accommodation and food, though sometimes this differs depending on hosts’ needs. It costs 20EURO to join for 2 years.

I knew I wanted to go to Spain as I wanted to improve my Spanish language, it has been 5 years since I lived in Madrid and I feel like I am forgetting it all without practice! Since I had already explored Madrid and surrounds and quite a lot of the South I chose to come to the North. My host had advertised that she has been learning English for the past 5 years but wanted more help in pronunciation and to practice speaking fluently. I have a TEFL certificate, have previously taught English in Thailand and conversation classes in Madrid, plus have a British accent and want to practice Spanish too so it was a good match! We emailed each other explaining what we were looking for and my host had space for 10 days in August so here I am! HelpX is also great in that you get to be a part of a different culture and live how a local does.

I am staying in a cute house in the countryside in a place called Puente San Miguel that is almost at the end of the FEVE (local train) line from Santander.

Here is the view from my room; behind that hill is the sea!

View from window

There are lots of cows here, I ran past these guys this morning…


I flew in to Bilbao airport and my flight arrived at 11pm. My host had found a bus from Bilbao centre that arrived near her house at 1am but I didn’t think there would be enough time to collect my luggage etc and get to the city so I decided to book into a hostel and go to hers on Monday morning. Luckily I did do that as the bus leaving the airport dropped me into town and then metro had already closed so I was looking for a taxi to get to the hostel instead and didn’t arrive until 1am there.

On Monday morning I caught an ALSA bus from Bilbao coach station (San Mames on metro) to Santander bus station which took about an hour and a half. I recommend booking in advance in the summer as I didn’t and I was lucky enough to get the last seat for 7Euro. From there I caught the FEVE (local train) to Puente San Miguel (about 45 mins and cost 2.50euro) where my host, Jane, met me. Straight away she was kind and talkative and took me for tapas in a local bar. We had a clara (like a shandy) and tortilla espanola con atun, a tuna and potato omlette. Her husband, Francisco picked us up in the car and took us to their house! Once settled we went for a walk around the surrounding countryside and it is stunningly beautiful. Lots of green hills, cows, sheep and trees. It is also very peaceful. In town we stopped for another drink before heading up the hill back to the house for dinner. Jane had prepared a salad, chorizo, lots of barbecue meat and all was delicious. We sat up to the table and talked for hours, in a mixture of Spanish and English (both Jane and Francisco are fluent in both.) I even had a quick spanish lesson into wines and some lovely tasters too. After staying in a hostel and late arrival the night before I had the laziest sleep ever, and didn’t wake up until 13 hours later. Cantabria and the countryside is so peaceful!

Countryside view

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